This Austin Hill Country Modern Manse Has A Compelling Backstory—and Much More

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The Retreat at Lick Creek Lodge recently hit the market for $17.5 million. (JP MORALES)

The only thing that could make this super-stylish, culturally and architecturally significant house in Austin Hill Country any cooler is a compelling backstory. And when the cast of characters ranges from award-winning architect John Covert Watson to novelist/singer/satirist Kinky Friedman, you know you’re in for a riveting Texas tale.

The waterfront manse, known as The Retreat at Lick Creek Lodge, sits on roughly 30 acres in Spicewood, off the Pedernales River. Asking price for the 12,002-square-foot abode: $17.5 million. The seller, according to property records, is John H. McCall, the former owner of the beauty supply company Armstrong-McCall — yet another colorful figure in the property’s illustrious history. (See the sidebar below.)

The residence features structural insulated panels and steel roof systems. (JP MORALES)
Walls of windows in the living room give the illusion of bringing the outdoors, in. (JP MORALES)

Its design roots are solid: Watson, a Taliesin Fellow, apprenticed under Frank Lloyd Wright in the 1950s. The use of desert masonry, redwood, steel, and glass throughout the lodge are a nod to his legendary mentor’s organic architectural principles.

The retreat has been the venue for many performances, including the likes of A-listers Pat Green, the Flatliners, Billy Joe Shaver, and as previously mentioned, Friedman. The home’s concert-friendly living area features an upper deck and built-in, cushioned seating; cork-covered walls enhance the acoustics.  

The main lodge and caretaker’s building were designed to look like a fanned-out deck of cards. (JP MORALES)

“The lodge truly is a space for art, whether that’s poetry readings, concerts or space to display art,” according to Kuper Sotheby’s International Realty listing agent Susan Barringer. Two covered carports and the area over the Lick Creek are also ideal for events, she told Mansion Global.

Among the home’s other extraordinary features, two are standouts.

First, there’s the circular 12-panel, 82-foot-round Kalwall skylight that overlooks the foyer and media hall. We also love the cascading waterfall that feeds into a grotto and negative-edge pool. A huge wooden deck and surrounding limestone cliff adds to the allure.  

The skylight brings natural illumination to the foyer and media room. (JP MORALES)
The infinity-edge pool is wrapped by a wooden deck. (JP MORALES)

In the main residence, expansive floor-to-ceiling windows offer picturesque views of the lushly landscaped grounds. “It’s very peaceful,” says Susan. “Even though there are walls of windows, they don’t look like glass. It feels like you’re running into nature.”

A modern, fully-equipped kitchen sports Calacatta Macaubas Quartzite countertops and oak and maple cabinetry. The primary building also houses four bedrooms, two of which open up to private patios; six full baths; and one half bath. Two additional bedrooms and baths are in the adjacent caretaker building/guest house.

Window seats in the dining room overlook the lushly-landscaped property. (JP MORALES)
The kitchen features top-of-the-line appliances and cabinetry. (JP MORALES)
A colorful fireplace is a focal point in the primary suite. (JP MORALES)
The soaking tub has its own window view of the world. (JP MORALES)

For the musically-inclined, Spicewood is a covet-worthy location. “It’s where Austin musicians can afford to live, so you’re surrounded by incredible artists,” says Susan. “You can hear them playing music in the hills.”

And then there’s the additional cachet of Poodies Hilltop Roadhouse, a neighboring bar and grub pub featuring live country music. “You never know which well-known artist you’ll run into there,” she adds.

The John H. McCall/Kinky Friedman Connection

Homeowner McCall, a one-time lawyer, has been dubbed the “Shampoo King of Dripping Springs”—and for good reason. The multi-millionaire first gained notoriety in the documentary The Shampoo King by UT associate professor Ellen Spiro, using a video camera to showcase McCall on his around-the-world adventures.

Steppin’ on a Rainbow is available on Amazon.

As for his relationship with Friedman, McCall is a leading character in the author’s detective novel Steppin’ on a Rainbow. A bit of digging turned up a 2001 article in the Austin Chronicle: “Kinky Friedman once remarked that the line between fiction and reality is the one he snorted back in 1978. More than two decades later, he’s still getting things mixed up. For example, putting his friend John McCall, the shampoo magnate and owner of the beauty supply firm Armstrong McCall, in his new detective novel not even bothering to change his name.”

Read the article here and we guarantee you’ll look at the Lick Creek lodge property in a whole new light.

We also recommend you view the video of the Spicewood property, listed by Kuper Sotheby’s International Realty for $17.5 million.

Elaine Raffel

Elaine Raffel